No matter where you are in your cat nail trimming journey, this post is for you! We will guide you through why regular nail trimming is important, how to trim cat nails using a clicker, and some other things you can do between trims.

Note: We are focusing on the front paws only to begin with. The reason for this is because your cat can easily see what you’re doing when working with their front paws, which makes the training process easier and less scary for them.

Disclosure: Cat School may receive commissions from affiliate links included in this article.

4 Reasons You Should Trim Your Cat’s Nails

Regular nail trimming is essential to maintaining your cat’s overall well-being. Cats need their nails (declawing is a harmful practice we would never recommend), but they can get too long, which can be uncomfortable for them and for you. While some cats’ claws may get filed naturally, most people need to trim their cat’s nails.

Learning how to clip your cat’s nails is important for several reasons:

1. To protect yourself from getting scratched. Whether your cat is playing with you, making biscuits on your lap, or doing tricks like high five, their sharp nails can come into contact with you and hurt.
2. For your cat’s safety. Long nails can get caught on things like carpet and furniture, potentially leading to painful injuries such as broken nails or having a paw stuck in a surface.
3. For your cat’s comfort. If your cat’s nails get too long, they can even curl back on themselves and grow into their paw pads, which can cause pain, mobility issues, and infection.
4. To protect your furniture. Nobody likes it when their nice furniture gets damaged. Trimming your cat’s claws will keep them from getting snagged on the couch or pulling on the living room rug.

Tools for Cat Nail Trims

Having the right tools for the job is important! Here are a few things you’ll want to have handy before beginning your cat nail trims:

• Cat nail trimmers – You want something with a sharp, stainless steel blade so it will slice right through your cat’s claws without crushing them. You also want the clippers to be comfortable in your hand.
• Your cat’s favorite high-value treat – Churus work great for this!
• A clicker – You will use the clicker throughout the process.
• Targets – You will use these targets to work on your cat’s paw handling. Targets include cork yoga blocks, trivets, and coasters. 
• Styptic powder – Although we hope this never happens, if you accidentally trim your cat’s nails too short, you can quickly stop bleeding with this powder. Cornstarch also works well.
• Patience – It’s good to set reasonable expectations. The nail trim process can take weeks and months, depending on your cat’s level of fear and how often you practice. Consistency is key; lots of easy sessions will help your cat overcome their fears of the nail trim process. 

How to Trim Cat Nails Using Clicker Training

Now that we’ve established the importance of trimming your cat’s claws and the necessary tools, it’s time to move on to the training steps.

Many cats aren’t fans of nail trims because restraining their paws is a scary sensation. The good news is that with time, patience, and a detailed training plan, every cat (even the most fearful) can learn that nail trims are not scary. The goal is to make the experience as positive and stress-free as possible.

There are four phases to improving your cat’s response to nail trims. As you work your way through the training steps, it’s important to remember to take things slowly and always keep a close eye on your cat’s body language. If you notice your cat is stressed (e.g., not eating the treat or walking away from your sessions), stop and try again later by making it easier. 

Phase 1: Making positive associations with the nail clippers.

The nail clippers themselves can be a scary tool, so the first goal is to show your cat that good things happen when the tool comes out. We want your cat to see the tool and get excited about it – like really really excited because they know they are going to get their favorite treats. Reserve the highest value treat for this training so your cat only gets it for nail trim training.Steps to building that positive emotional response to the nail clippers:

1. Bring the clippers out first. As soon as your cat notices them, present your cat with a high-value, delicious treat. Reserve this treat only for this training.
2. As soon as you stop feeding, immediately put the clippers away.
3. Wait a few seconds and repeat the process once or two more times.
4. Practice this exercise in a few locations so your cat is surprised to see the trimmers and then excited to see the treats.
5. Try to do two short sessions per day.

Tip: Make sure your cat sees the clipper FIRST before the food. If your cat is distracted by the food and then the clippers come out, the training won’t work.

How will you know it’s time you move on? 
Look for any of the following behaviors:

• Sniffing the clippers
• Head bunting the clippers
• Purring at the sight of the clippers

Phase 2: Getting comfortable with body handling and touch.

The goal with this phase is for your cat to accept general body handling. You want your cat to know that when you touch them, good things happen (they get treats). 

1. Start in the zones where your cat is comfortable with touch (for example, on their back and sides), and present food AFTER the touch. You can also start the touch and then present the food so that they overlap before simultaneously removing the food and the touch.
2. Repeat while gradually gliding your hand to the more challenging zones. 
3. Continue to practice until your cat is comfortable with gentle touches all over.

Tip: Lickable treats or licking wet food off of a spoon work well for this phase.

How will I know I can move on? 
By the end of this training phase, your cat should be comfortable with you touching their legs and paws. 

Note: Training on a chair can be a helpful tool to encourage stillness. You tell your cat it’s time to participate in their daily handling sessions, and your cat (by staying on the chair) communicates that they are willing to participate. If your cat leaves the training station, that’s a sign you need to make it easier or more worthwhile with higher-value treats.

Phase 3: Willingly presenting paws.

This nail trim training process is designed to get your cat beyond tolerating nail trims to becoming an active participant. The goal is that, instead of grabbing your cat’s paws and trimming (this can be aversive), your cat will willingly present their paws to you for handling. 

We use various props (targets) for this phase, including the cork targets mentioned earlier. If you substitute other targets, ensure that they are not slippery.

With each step outlined below, you want your cat to consistently perform the behavior 4-5 times in a row before moving on to the next step.

1. Teach your cat the “two paws on” behavior using a yoga block. Watch this YouTube tutorial video for the full training steps. 
   
2. Fade out the lure. Your cat should notice the targets in the environment and offer the “paws on” behavior on their own. 
   
3. Isolate the dominant paw. In the previous steps, did you notice if your cat favors a particular paw by stepping on the block with that paw first? If so, that’s the paw you want to start with for this step.
   
   Position the yoga block to encourage your cat to use one paw to step onto it. You might need to experiment with the placement by putting it off to the side, for example. Click and reward when your cat steps on the block with the correct paw.
   
   Note: If your cat steps up with the wrong paw, lure them off and feed them the treat with the correct paw on the block. Only click for the action of the correct paw moving. This is not an easy step, and you may need to experiment with moving the block around.
   
4. Make your target smaller. Once your cat is comfortable with Step 3 and consistently only puts one paw on the block, repeat the step with a stack of cork trivets or other smaller prop, and then eventually with the even smaller cork coasters. The goal is to reduce the size of the prop so it’s small enough to fit in your hand.
   
5. Raise the target. Instead of stacking your cork coasters on the floor, it’s time to pick one up in your hand to raise it off the ground. Get your cat to repeat placing their paw on the target in your hand.
   
6. Introduce the paw shake. Using your coaster target in your hand, get your cat to present the paw you want and introduce some gentle paw touching. The goal here is to get your cat comfortable with you handling their paw for around 3 seconds. You can even feed your cat while you’re touching their paw.
   
   Note: Note: If your cat pulls away, reduce the length of the touch. Be sure not to click when your cat pulls away because you don’t want to reinforce that behavior.
   
7. Fade out the target. Present your hand (with no target) to your cat on the side for the paw you want. They should present their paw and place it in your hand. 
   
8. Introduce the other paw. Repeat steps 3-7 with the other side.
   
   Note: If your cat has trouble presenting the other paw, use your yoga blocks to create stairs. Use your food reward to lure your cat up the stairs. They will have to step one at a time, and when they step with the paw you want, click and reward.

The end result of this training is that you have a reliable signal to get your cat to present EACH paw. Your cat should understand when you present your hand off to the side, that signals for them to present the paw that’s closest to your hand. You can then continue to improve your cat’s response to nail trims. 

Phase 4: Extending the nail, touching clippers to nails, and clipping!

Now that your cat is willingly presenting their paws and is comfortable with the presence and touch of the nail clippers, you can reach the nail trim finish line by working on extending the nail, touching the clippers to nails, and finally clipping.

1. Extend one nail. Reward your cat. Work systematically through each paw, feeding treats after each nail extension.
2. Touch the clippers to the nail. After your cat presents their paw, extend one nail and gently touch the clippers to it. Repeat with each nail, gradually increasing the time your cat is comfortable with you holding their paw.
   
   If your cat tries to pull away at any point, let them. We want them to always feel in control. Continue to give your cat food even if they pull away, as the goal is to pair the training with a positive outcome (food). Some students might worry that they are reinforcing their cat for pulling away, but we are addressing the fear, not the action, so it’s OK to give treats even for the incorrect behavior. However, it’s always best to back up a step and make it easier so your cat doesn’t present the pulling away behavior.
3. Cut a nail. Use the clippers to clip one nail at a time, rewarding after each one. It’s okay if you aren’t able to do them all in one session. Repeat the process and continue rewarding. 

Here is some important information to review when it comes to clipping your cat’s nails:

• The quick is the blood supply that runs through the nail. We always want to be mindful to not hit the quick. If nail trims cause your cat pain, they will be even more fearful and anxious about the process.
• Just take the tips off. Clip often and take a tiny bit off each time. This practice will keep you from ever getting too close to the quick and improve your skills at cat nail trims. The more you practice the better your cat will be at holding still and waiting for their treat.

It Takes More Than Just Nail Trims

Cat clawing and scratching is a frequent complaint of many cat owners. Regularly trimming your cat’s nails helps minimize damage for sure, but if you want to keep your cat from scratching your furniture, you’ll need to take a couple additional steps: training and providing plenty of scratching posts!

Scratching is an instinctual behavior, so instead of trying to stop the behavior, you want to redirect it. You can find a wide range of cat scratchers – from vertical and horizontal ones, to cardboard or carpeted ones, and more. Get a few different styles, and place them in various areas of your home – especially near the places they tend to gravitate towards.

In addition to scratch training, be sure to maintain your nail trim training by practicing between clipping sessions. A veterinarian might advise you to clip your cat’s nail once every two weeks. A behaviorist says “practice every day.” At zoos and aquariums, they practice blood collection simulations 100 times for every real one. Likewise, don’t just wait until your cat needs their nails trimmed to get the clippers out. If your supplies are close by, you will be inclined to practice often. Be sure to touch your cat’s paws, extend their nails, and maintain that comfort with them allowing you to handle them in this way.

Cat Nail Trim FAQs

• What about the back claws? Working on the front paws is different than working on the back paws because a) the cats can easily see what you are doing, so it’s a little less scary, and b) front and back claws grow at different rates.
  
  Many people find that back claws grow slower. That doesn’t mean you can ignore them, but focus on the front paws first to help your cat understand what’s going on. Then turn your attention to training the back paws.
  
  Trimming the back paws is easier when your cat is lying down (relaxed on one side), so once you’ve done Phase 1 and Phase 2, your cat should already see the trimmers as a good thing and be comfortable with you touching back paws.
  
  At this stage, you will skip Phase 3, but that doesn’t mean you won’t be doing clicker training. Instead, focus on teaching your cat to lie down on cue, making the process easier because you can signal your cat to lie down when you are ready to practice nail trims on the back paws. Once your cat has a good down signal, focus your attention on Phase 4.
  
• Is using a dremel tool okay? While it is possible to teach a cat to accept a dremel that would be a different training plan because the cat would need to be desensitized to the sound and vibrating of the tool.
  
• Can I use human nail clippers on my cat? Yes, it is possible, but I prefer to use pair clippers designed for cats. 
  
• Do I need to trim my outdoor cat’s nails? Maybe. This will depend on how much they get filed based on their outdoor activities. Some cats are more active than others, for example, by engaging in climbing trees and scratching fences. A cat’s behavior and activity can change as a they get older so while they may not need it now, it’s still wise to do the training process. Plus, if your cat gets something stuck in their paw, they will need to be comfortable with handling so you can remove it. 
  
• How often do I need to trim my cat’s nails? Just like with human nails, cat nails grow at different lengths. Generally speaking for indoor cats though, you’ll probably need to perform claw trims every 2-3 weeks. Check on kitty’s nails every so often to see how sharp they are and to determine if it’s time for a trim. An outdoor cat may need nail trims less frequently.
  
• What if I can’t get every claw trimmed during a session? That’s okay! Clipping one or two per session is absolutely fine and encouraged so you can make it a positive experience.
  
• Is cat declawing bad? Yes! It is a cruel and painful procedure that can cause serious behavior and health issues for your cat. Thankfully declawing is becoming illegal in more and more places, and there are many veterinarians who will refuse to perform the procedure. 
  
• Is it okay to muzzle my cat during nail trims? No. Muzzling can be scary and stressful, leading your cat to further associate nail trims with negative experiences. The goal is for the cat is comfortable with nail trims so they are not at risk of biting. If you go through the training process outlined above, muzzling will not be needed.
  
• What do I do if I need to cut my cat’s nails during the training process? If you’re still working on your nail trim training but need to clip your cat’s nails in the meantime, you can use the distraction method. With this method, you give your cat a squeezie treat or lick mat to distract them and keep them occupied while you trim. Watch the video below for a demonstration

If you run into any trouble throughout the training process or would like help teaching your cat to lie down on cue for their back paw nail trims, head on over to Cat School to access full training tutorials (including video demonstrations). You’ll also be able to ask questions and get personalized feedback and assistance from cat behaviorist and trainer, Julie Posluns.

The post A Training Guide to Cat Nail Trims: Front Paws appeared first on Cat School.

Kitten socialization is vital if your kitten grows into a well-adjusted, social, and confident cat who is comfortable with different situations and environments. Read on for more information on how to socialize a kitten.

Disclosure: Cat School may receive commissions from affiliate links included in this article.

What is Kitten Socialization?

Kitten socialization involves:

• introducing your kitten to other living beings like people and animals
• exposing them to different sights and sounds so they feel safe in the world around them
• getting them comfortable being handled so they accept procedures like nail trims and teeth brushing
• helping them to make positive associations with the world around them so they have the best chance of growing up to be happy and confident

A well-socialized kitten will be more accepting of new people and environments, but also of things like car rides, vet visits, carriers, nail trims, grooming, etc.

It’s important to note that exposing your cat to new things is different from socialization. For example, if you introduce your cat to dogs, but their experiences always consist of the dog chasing or harassing them, your kitten will grow scared or intolerant of dogs rather than accepting them. 

Exposing kittens to triggers that cause them to have a fearful response or panic is called “flooding” and will only make your kitten even more scared of you and the situation. Flooding is the same as throwing someone in a pool to teach them to swim.

The key to socialization is to expose your kitten to the new person or environment in a way that’s not scary, PLUS pair good things (treats and toys) with the experience to make it positive.

When Should I Start Socializing My Kitten?

Early socialization with kittens is the key to preventing the fearfulness of humans. It is highly recommended for kittens between 0-12 weeks of age to be exposed to people at least once a week. For example, having your kitten meet friends and family when they are young is worthwhile. 

If you’ve adopted a kitten that missed this early socialization period, it’s still possible to socialize them; however, it may take a bit longer to show them that each situation and person is safe. No matter your kitten’s age, socialization is possible and should be a focus when bringing them home.

How to Socialize a Kitten in 13 Ways

As mentioned, socializing kittens means introducing your cat to a possible trigger at a low level so it’s not scary, and then pairing that introduction with something positive – like the food they love. In this list are many ways to begin the kitten socialization process:

1. Pair Food With Touch

We want to build a foundation of trust and cooperation with our kittens, which begins with showing that touch is a positive experience. Instead of giving your kitten all their food in a bowl, you can use their food to strengthen your bond. One of the easiest ways to create this association is by having your cat lick wet food off a spoon while you touch them. 

Be sure to touch your kitten’s paws, head, ears, tail and mouth. You can even try opening your kitten’s mouth to inspect their teeth (a great way to lead into teeth brushing!). Not only will your veterinarian thank you for this later, but you’ll also be more familiar with your kitten’s body and able to notice any potential health issues down the road. Practice daily until your kitten is comfortable with touch in all zones, especially the more sensitive ones like their paws. 

2. Introduce Grooming Tools

Brushes and nail clippers will be a part of your kitten’s reality, so you want to introduce them early to show that they aren’t scary. Bring out the tools and pair them with your kitten’s favorite treats. When offering your kitten a toothbrush, add something tasty to it and let your kitten lick it.

Tip: Use a more exciting reward for the scarier tools like nail trimmers. The goal is for your kitten to see these tools and get excited.

3. Engage in Play Together

Playing with your kitten will do wonders for their socialization skills and build their confidence. Interactive play is a great bonding activity and a way to build trust. 

Throwing a toy out for them to play with on their own isn’t enough. As Dr. Mikel Delgado says, “Toys that are left lying on the floor are ‘dead.’ They are boring.” 

Some engaging play ideas include dragging toys under a towel to mimic hunting, alternating the speed and movement of the toy, and using toys with different sounds (think rustling and crushing sounds). Wand toys are great for this. 

4. Use Food Puzzle/Foraging Toys

Food puzzle toys are beneficial for many reasons. They provide physical and mental enrichment, help reduce boredom and stress, and allow your kitten to act on their natural hunting/foraging instincts.

There are many different foraging toys, such as snuffle mats, stationary puzzle toys, mobile puzzle toys, etc. Let your kitten try out different ones, so they get as much experience and opportunity to put their foraging skills to the test as possible. You will also be able to figure out their learning style and foraging preferences. 

5. Have Visitors to Your Home

For your kitten to be comfortable around new people (besides you and members of your household), you should introduce them to outside people regularly. These “outsiders” can be friends, family members, neighbors, whoever!

As with everything related to kitten socialization, your kitten needs to make positive associations with these visitors. Have the visitors pet your kitty, give them treats, play with them, and talk to them sweetly. Only allow people to hold your kitten if it’s something your kitten enjoys; being forcibly held will not help your kitten learn that people are good.

Fear Free recommends having your kitten meet someone new every day for the first 14 weeks of their life. The more you can work on this skill, the better.

6. Start Carrier Training

Car rides with your cat are inevitable, and you will need to take your kitten to the vet at some point, at the very least. And who knows – you may eventually move, need to take your cat on a road trip, or even start adventuring with your cat.

If your cat is riding in the car, they should be riding in an enclosed carrier for safety reasons. Carrier training adult cats can sometimes be tricky, so it’s best to start the process when your kitten is young.

Leave the carrier out, feed your kitten in it, and put catnip and toys inside it to make it a fun and enticing place. We want your kitten to associate the carrier with positive things, making being in the carrier and future car rides much easier!

7. Go on Car Rides

Speaking of car rides, they are something that you should practice regularly. Once your kitten is comfortable in their carrier, you can start, introducing them to the car. Gradually work your way up from just sitting in the car in the driveway to short rides around the block to longer rides around town. 

As with everything, the goal is to make car rides a positive experience for your kitten! If you have a partner, they can be responsible for putting treats inside the carrier throughout the journey. Visit Starbucks, get yourself a snack for your efforts (training is hard work), and give your kitten some treats for coming along for the ride. Introducing your kitten to car rides will make traveling with them so much easier.

8. Make Happy Visits to the Vet

It’s no secret that vet visits can be stressful and scary for cats, but it doesn’t have to be that way. You can set up “happy visits” to the vet to counteract the negativity. A happy visit is when you take your kitten to the vet exclusively for pets and treats. You can let the vet techs and your veterinarian handle and love your kitten to make the experience positive, reducing their fear and stress the next time they have to go for an actual wellness visit. 

If you’re able to find a Fear Free certified veterinarian, that’s even better, since they will be especially focused on making your kitten’s vet visits stress-free.

9. Introduce Your Kitten to Cat-Friendly Dogs

Socializing a young kitten includes socializing with other animals in addition to humans. You may decide to get a dog in the future, so you want your cat to have some exposure to them. Even if you have a resident dog who shares the home with your kitten, you should still practice meeting other dogs. Your kitty is bound to run into strange dogs at some point, whether in the lobby at your vet’s office or while you’re out on a leash walk.

As mentioned earlier, the key is ensuring these dog interactions are positive. If you have friends or family members who have “cat-friendly” dogs, start there, and ask them to come to your home and bring their dog. 

Set up safe and controlled interactions (have the dog on a leash or behind a gate so the dog never chases the cat. You want to start by letting your kitten observe the dog up high, where they are safe. Use treats so your kitten associates the dogs with positive things.

10. Try Out Different Foods and Treats

Cats are notoriously picky eaters, so introduce your cat to different foods and treats when they’re young to expand their palette. Allow them to try various protein sources, textures, and flavors. Cats learn to be picky by only giving them one food, so we want to avoid this by encouraging them to accept a variety of meals and snacks.

Hint: Make a mental note of their favorite things so you can use them for training sessions later!

11. Introduce Your Cat to Different Sounds

One of the scariest things for unsocialized kittens is loud noises – sirens, fireworks, construction, dogs barking, etc. While these sounds may be complex for you to practice with “in real life,” recordings of sounds from Youtube can be an excellent first step to desensitizing them. 

You can also open your windows (as long as they have screens) or give your cat access to a catio or outside playpen so they can experience these sounds in a controlled environment. Car rides will also help introduce your cat to the sounds of the outside world.

12. Experience Different Textures

This may seem silly, but walking on different surfaces and textures can be startling for some cats. As with the different food and sounds, you should introduce your cat to the feel of different textures such as carpet, hardwood, concrete, and grass. Have your cat follow wet food on a spoon over many surfaces. Cats can be startled by changes in their environment. For example, even moving a rug around can be startling. Reward your kitten for treating new surfaces like a fun obstacle course.

13. Begin Harness & Leash Training

Harness and leash training should be a part of every cat’s training process. Even if you don’t have grand plans to travel and adventure with your cat, there are other situations in which harness and leash training can come in handy. For example, in an emergency, visiting the vet, moving, etc.

Being harness and leash-trained will allow you and your kitten to enjoy some safe outdoor time together. Because we don’t recommend letting your cat free-roam outdoors, harness and leash training your kitten is the best way to let your cat experience the outdoor world in a safe and controlled manner. 

While older cats can be harness trained, introducing your kitten to the harness and leash when they are young can speed up the process.

When Can You Start the Socialization Process?

Your socialization training can begin as soon as you bring your kitten home. Though it’s never too early or too late to begin, starting with socialization at an early age is best. However, the socialization window never fully closes – you can still work with an older kitten.  

If you’re lucky, you may even have Kitten Kindergarten classes near you. In kitten kindergarten, you would get help from a trainer and/or cat behaviorist with all of the above-mentioned socialization steps. These classes are becoming more and more popular for good reason, and hopefully the future will see more opportunities to make it easier to socialize kittens. 

In addition to the socialization skills mentioned in this article, you can also start clicker training your kitten. Clicker training helps to teach your kitten self-control and to focus on you. When you’re ready, you can begin incorporating clicker training basics into your routine. Parking spot training is especially helpful.

Remember to have fun as you work on all these skills with your cat – socialization and training are about enriching your kitten’s life, setting them up for success and happiness, and building that bond and sense of trust between the two of you. It should be a positive experience for you both.

If you come across anything you need help with or would like to dive deeper into your cat’s training, be sure to join the Cat School Membership group. In Cat School, you have direct access to cat behaviorist Julie Posluns, and you’ll be able to follow her training roadmap with video tutorials and step-by-step lessons. Her goal is to help you give your cat the best life possible!

Sources: 

Pratsch, L., Mohr, N., Palme, R., Rost, J., Troxler, J., & Arhant, C. (2018). Carrier training cats reduces stress on transport to a veterinary practice. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 206, 64–74. doi:10.1016/j.applanim.2018.05.025 

Dantas, L. M., Delgado, M. M., Johnson, I., & Buffington, C. T. (2016). Food puzzles for cats. Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, 18(9), 723–732. doi:10.1177/1098612×16643753

The post How to Socialize a Kitten appeared first on Cat School.

• Outdoor cats – cats that roam free
• Cats that go out on a harness and leash
• Cats at risk of door dashing. If indoor-only cats are at risk of getting outside, they should wear a collar.
• Cats experiencing a change in their environment that puts them at risk, including traveling, moving, vet visits, and being cared for by a house sitter.
• Cats who may need to wear a cone one day because of treatment.

That being said, getting your cat to actually wear a collar can sometimes be easier said than done. Not all cats will take to wearing a collar right away, and putting a collar on your cat is not a set it and forget it type of situation. Cat collar training is essential to ensure your cat is successful at wearing a collar.

Should I Train My Cat to Wear a Collar?

The short answer is, “Yes!” Whether you have an outdoor cat, indoor-only cat, or walk your cat on a leash (like I do), all cats will likely need to wear a collar at some point in time. For some, wearing a collar is 100% mandatory.

Every outdoor cat must wear a collar.

While we advocate for every feline companion to be an indoor cat (unless going outside on a harness and leash), many cat owners still let their cats roam free. For these outdoor cats, there is a real danger in getting lost. It’s easy to mistake an outdoor cat not wearing collar as a stray cat.

Only 74% of lost cats are reunited with their families, so we should be doing everything possible to improve that statistic. Wearing a well-fitting collar, attaching a GPS tracker to the collar, and getting your cat microchipped are all ways to keep your outdoor cat safe. It also allows people to contact you if your cat is injured, gets in a fight, or is being a nuisance in your neighbor’s garden.

Cats who go out on a harness and leash MUST wear a collar.

There is no such thing as an “escape-proof” harness, so any cat who goes out on a harness and leash should also wear a collar with a tracking device. In an emergency situation, if your cat slips out of the their harness, you will still be able to find them.

Indoor cats who door dash MUST wear a collar.

It is a good idea for cats who are at risk of door dashing to wear a collar. Accidents happen, and if your cat gets outside, having a collar on them (with a tracking device) will help you recover your cat.

Cats who are being put at risk due to a change in environment MUST wear a collar.

We’ve all heard stories about cats moving and getting lost. When you change your cat’s environment, you can’t predict all the possible dangers in a new setting. For example, doors or windows that don’t shut properly.

Having someone take care of your cat when you go away also puts your cat at risk because they don’t know all of your cat’s behaviors – for example, if they door dash.

What’s the Best Cat Collar?

Finding the right collar involves asking two questions.

1. Is it the right fit for your cat’s neck so it won’t get caught in anything (for example, their limb if they scratch)?
2. Will it stay on?

Does my cat need a breakaway collar?

A breakaway cat collar is one that has a buckle that will snap open when pulled hard enough. This is one of the safety features more cat owners look for in collar selection. While breakaway collars serve an important purpose (relieve people of the worry their cat is in danger of the collar getting caught somewhere), a problem arises when the collar is too sensitive and falls off if the cat scratches. If a cat owner has to reapply a collar often, they may give up eventually.

During an introductory process, it’s important to watch the sensitivity of a breakaway collar.

If you opt for a breakaway collar you should do a testing period indoors first to ensure it stays on. My cat Jones wears a breakaway collar, and it’s never come off.

Stay away from elastic collars.

Elastic stretch cat collars have a piece of elastic in them that allows them to stretch. Though they may seem like a good idea, they are actually quite unsafe. In a study done to determine the percentage of cats still wearing collars after a 6 month period, all the participating cats who got their collars stuck on an object were wearing elastic stretch collars. The study found that these types of collars were most likely to stretch out and become loose, making them more likely to get caught on other objects.

Select a collar that supports a tracking device.

While it’s important to select a safe collar (one that won’t get caught in anything), the best way to keep your cat safe is with a tracking device. A tracking device gives your cat the protection that, in an emergency, you can locate them. If your cat’s collar falls off too easily, not only do they lose their ID, they also lose their tracker.

How to Fit Your Cat for a Collar

To ensure your cat is as safe as possible while wearing their collar, you want to make sure their collar has been properly fitted. A collar that is too tight will be uncomfortable and can put pressure on their sensitive neck area.

A collar that is too loose is more likely to come off, and it can also be dangerous. If it’s too loose, your cat could slip a leg through and get stuck. They could also get their bottom jaw stuck in it.

When selecting your cat’s collar size, you can measure around their neck with a flexible tape measure. If you don’t have a flexible tape measure, you can use a piece of string and cut it to the needed length, then measure the string with a ruler. You should be able to fit 2 fingers between your cat’s neck and their collar.

Don’t set it and forget it.

For your cat’s safety, it is important to check your cat’s collar on a regular basis to make sure it is still has proper fit and that the tracking device is securely attached.

Cat Collar Training Steps

While there are definitely some cats who will immediately accept wearing a collar, that is not always the case. If you have a cat who is uncomfortable wearing a collar and manages to always scratch it off, they CAN be trained to willingly accept it.

Follow the clicker training steps below for the best chance of success with your feline companion. The key is to take things slow and use positive reinforcement (i.e. treats)! There is also a video tutorial down below.

Phase 1

1. Create a large loop using one of three methods:
   1) The handle of a leash
   2) The clasp of a leash to create a slip. Be careful using this method – make sure your cat can always pull out and the loop won’t tighten.
   3) A collar loosened all the way (if your cat’s collar will loosen enough)
2. With food in your hand, draw your cat’s head through the loop. 
3. When your cat’s head is on the other side of the loop, click and feed them the treat with the loop resting on their back. Since both your hands are occupied, and you can’t hold the clicker, you can make a clicking sound with your mouth.
4. Continue to feed your cat as you remove the loop. Putting their head in something and taking it out are equally scary processes.
5. Once your cat is confidently following the food through the loop, switch to a finger target or target stick and stop using the food lure. 

Phase 2

Your cat should be well-versed in putting their head through the loop from Training Phase 1 before moving on to the next phase of training. If you’ve been using your cat’s leash handle thus far, you can switch to using the slip or loosened collar now that your cat is feeling more confident.

1. Present the loop to your cat as a cue and wait for them to put their head through. If they don’t do it independently, help them with the hand signal after one to two seconds. Repeat this process until your cat sees the loop as the signal and will automatically put their head through.
2. Once the looped leash is resting on your cat’s back, practice opening the clasp to release the loop. This will help your cat get comfortable with removing equipment.
3. Practice opening and closing the clasp resting on your cat’s back to get them comfortable with your hands behind their neck. If you aren’t comfortable using the slip for this, you can use a leash and pretend to “fasten” and unfasten” it around your cat’s neck.
4. Widen the distance between your hands to mimic the opening and closing of a collar on your cat’s neck. 
5. Now you’re ready to introduce your cat to their collar! Have them practice wearing it for prolonged periods to get comfortable with it.

Cat Collar Training Video Tutorial

Need further help with your cat collar training? Join the Cat School Classroom to access the step-by-step training videos!

Cat Collar FAQs

• What should I look for in a cat collar? A cat collar should be thin and lightweight. 3/8″ – 1/2″ width is best. You can easily find adjustable cat collars at your local pet store, or you can find places online to order a custom-length collar. A custom collar is nice because it is a bit less bulky than an adjustable one.We do NOT recommend elastic collars.
• Should I microchip my cat if they already wear a collar? Yes! Though collars are a great form of quick identification should a stranger come across your kitty, a microchip adds an extra level of loss-prevention. For example, if your cat manages to slip out of their collar, they’d still have a microchip they can be identified by.
• Does my cat need to wear a collar if they are already microchipped? Yes! Microchips are great and we definitely advocate for them, but they require a person to take your cat to a veterinarian or animal shelter that has a chip scanner. If your cat wears a collar with up-to-date ID tags, a person can quickly and easily identify your cat and give you a call.
• Does my indoor cat need to wear a collar? Yes! As mentioned in the article, indoor cats can accidentally slip outside and become lost. If you decide not to put a collar on your indoor cat at all times, you should at least have them wear one in the following circumstances:
  • Unexpected visitors come to your home (e.g., a repair person)
  • You’re taking your cat to the vet
  • You’re taking a trip or moving
  • A house- or pet-sitter comes over to care for them
  • They are doing fire alarm testing in your apartment building
• Does my outdoor cat need to wear a collar? Yes! If your outdoor cat is wearing a collar, they will be less likely to be identified as a stray. If a neighbor sees your cat has a collar, they will know your cat has a home.It is not uncommon for outdoor cats to have multiple homes that feed them because neighbors see the cat and think they are a stray. Eventually your cat may even stop coming home because they’re getting cared for (or even brought inside) somewhere else. A collar will help prevent that.We also recommend putting a bell on an outdoor cat’s collar to alert any prey animals of your cat’s presence.(If you have an outdoor cat, we also recommend reconsidering their situation. Outdoor cats are more prone to injuries, sickness, and death. They can still enjoy the wonder of the outdoor world on a harness and leash, which ensures a safer experience and allows for great bonding between you and your feline companion.)
• When should my cat start wearing a collar? Cats can begin wearing collars at any age. Though it’s typically easier to train a kitten than an adult cat or senior cat, it’s never too late.If you have a new kitten, we recommend beginning your collar training as soon as possible. For safety reasons, just make sure your kitten only wears their collar under supervision, as they might not be strong enough to detach a breakaway buckle on their own if they were to get snagged on something. 

Resources:

Lord, Linda K. Evaluation of collars and microchips for visual and permanent identification of pet cats.

The post Cat Collar Training: How and Why to Do It appeared first on Cat School.

A survey I did on Instagram revealed that only 15% of people are brushing their cat’s teeth. More people expressed an interest in it but didn’t know where to start.

Brushing your pet’s teeth takes training and patience, which is why we’ve got some training tips for you to help make the process as easy as possible. Let’s first take a look at why you should be brushing your cat’s teeth…

*Please note: Brushing a cat’s teeth is not a replacement for proper veterinary dental care. Some cats are more prone to dental diseases and will need extra care.

 Disclosure: Cat School may receive commissions from affiliate links included in this article.

Why Brushing a Cat’s Teeth is Important

Did you know veterinarians recommend brushing your cat’s teeth on a daily basis? Without regular brushing, your cat will develop bad breath. Plaque will also start building up on your cat’s teeth, which will eventually lead to gingivitis.

If left untreated, the built up plaque will eventually become tartar, and the gingivitis may progress to the more serious and irreversible periodontal disease. These conditions are painful, will ultimately lead to tooth loss, and can even contribute to other health issues.

To avoid painful dental issues and expensive dental procedures and veterinary bills later on down the road, you should brush your cat’s teeth on a regular basis.

My Personal Experience

Last year, my cat Jones had his teeth professionally cleaned under anesthesia. After his dental cleaning, I set a goal to brush his teeth regularly to reduce the frequency of this procedure.

For several months, I worked on touching his face gently so he would allow me to open his mouth. Progress was slow, and I didn’t want to delay brushing his teeth by having to wait until he was comfortable with me holding his face.

Although many cat care professionals will mention “tough love” (i.e., do it, and the cat will get over it), I know this strategy doesn’t work with my cat. If I put Jones in a scenario that makes him uncomfortable, he becomes suspicious and anxious about my actions and consequently avoids me. Restraining him is not an option either.

I suspect the same is true for other cats and cat owners as well, which is why I’ve put together some training tips for you.

How to Brush a Cat’s Teeth

No one has ever promised that brushing a cat’s teeth would be easy. Understand that the process will take time. You will have to build up to your cat allowing you to fully brush their teeth. That being said, it is well worth the effort.

In my case, knowing that Jones loved the toothbrush and toothpaste (coconut oil), I needed to figure out a way I could brush his teeth without having to hold his head. If your cat also won’t allow you to touch their face or mouth, you can try the voluntary teeth brushing method that I’ve used and outlined below:

Step 1: Get pet toothpaste and a pet toothbrush.

It’s important to get a toothpaste that is safe for cats. Human toothpaste contains toxic ingredients, so it should never be used. You can even find cat toothpaste that is flavored to make it more appealing to your cat – like chicken flavor, for example.

You’ll also need a cat toothbrush that is small and has either soft bristles or is made of rubber.

Step 2: Let your cat cat lick the toothpaste.

Start by putting a dab of toothpaste on your finger and letting your cat lick it off. Once your cat will accept the toothpaste from your finger, you can put it on the toothbrush and let your cat lick it from there.

This is how I started with Jones, hoping that the oral benefits would happen regardless of the actual brushing.

Step 3: Let your cat gnaw on the toothbrush.

Hopefully your cat will eventually go from licking the toothbrush to gnawing or chewing on it. That’s a good thing! Your cat’s teeth will be cleaned some as they chew on it, without you even having to do much.

Step 4: Start brushing.

As your cat gets more comfortable with chewing on the toothbrush and having it in their mouth, you can start trying to glide it back and forth – beginning to actually brush.

Start with just a couple swipes. You can brush for small increments of time at first and eventually work up to more swipes and longer brushing sessions.

If your cat won’t accept the toothbrush, you can use a “finger toothbrush.” This just means using your finger to slide across your cat’s teeth. Though not as effective as an actual toothbrush, it’s better than nothing. The goal would still be to work towards brushing with the toothbrush.

Step 5: Incorporate the cat clicker.

Depending on how your cat progresses with the previous 4 steps, you may or may not have to use the clicker for your cat teeth brushing training sessions.

With Jones, he naturally starting gnawing on the toothbrush. The next time he did that, I started to glide the brush back and forth across his teeth. However, the other side of his mouth didn’t happen naturally, so I used the clicker to indicate that opening his mouth was the desired behavior.

I placed the toothbrush along his molars, and anytime he opened his mouth, I clicked. His reward was a few seconds of licking the toothbrush. I continued in this way to get him used to interacting with the toothbrush and accept the brushing motion.

Success!

At our most recent veterinary appointment, there was good news. “His teeth look great,” our veterinarian said. “I’ve been brushing them!” I proudly exclaimed.

I hope that by using the voluntary teeth brushing method outlined above that you and your cat will see the same success.

Of course, if you run into any trouble or need help with the process, I would be happy to guide you through brushing your cat’s teeth over in Cat School!

Cat Teeth Brushing FAQs

• Do you need to brush your cat’s teeth?
  YES! Just like with humans, teeth brushing is important for our pets. Veterinarians agree: Pet tooth brushing is the gold standard for preventative oral health care.
  
• Can I use human toothpaste to brush my cat’s teeth?
  NO! Human toothpaste is toxic to cats. You should only use toothpaste intended for cats specifically.
  
• What toothpaste do you recommend?
  Pet stores carry many varieties of toothpaste created to encourage cats to cooperate. Because coconut oil is known to boost oral health in cats (and because my cat loves it), it was a natural choice for me. Other recommendations include Virbac Enzymatic Toothpaste.
  
• What toothbrush do you recommend?
  Because of the size of a cat’s mouth, a smaller toothbrush is better. Many of the brushes sold at pet stores are round to increase the area of the mouth that the toothbrush contacts.
  
  My first choice for a cat toothbrush is the brand Mind Up. They have a variety of tiny toothbrushes ideal for a cat’s mouth.
  
• How often should you brush?
  Ideally, once a day. The consistency will not only improve your cat’s oral hygiene but also help improve your cat’s response to the training.
  
• Do I need to brush my cat’s teeth if I feed dry food?
  Yes. Although some data suggests the size of kibble does make a difference in plaque removal, in my opinion, the other health consequences of feeding a kibble diet outweigh the possible benefit.
  
  A less processed diet combined with teeth brushing would be my recommended choice. Keep in mind there are foods, such as raw bones, that are more aligned with a cat’s natural diet and also help with cleaning teeth.
  
• If my cat’s teeth are already in bad condition, will brushing fix it?
  If your cat already has tartar buildup, you need to see your veterinarian to have your cat’s teeth properly assessed and cleaned under anesthesia before starting a home cleaning program. After the dentistry, you can begin teeth cleaning to reduce the need for future dental procedures. It’s never too late to get started!
  
• If I have an older cat, is it too late to start toothbrush training?
  Nope! It’s never too late. Adult cats and kittens alike can all be trained to accept teeth brushings.

Cat Teeth Brushing Video Training Tutorial

P.S. I have not abandoned the work on teaching Jones to allow me to hold his face. The method outlined in this article is a way for you to get started. Once your cat is happily running for teeth cleaning time, you can decide if you want to introduce some gentle handling to stabilize your cat’s head, pull back their lips, and apply more pressure on the toothbrush.

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Brushing A Cat’s Teeth appeared first on Cat School.